Kuluka ndi ukadaulo womwe umagwiritsa ntchito singano zoluka ndi makina ena opangira malupu kuti amange ulusi kukhala malupu ndikuwalumikiza kuti apange nsalu.Malingana ndi maonekedwe osiyanasiyana a lusoli, kuluka kumagawidwa kukhala kuluka kwa weft ndi kuluka kwa warp.
Pakuluka ma weft, ulusi umalowetsedwa mu singano motsatira njira ya weft kupanga nsalu yoluka.Pakuluka koluka, ulusiwo umayikidwa pa singano pambali pa warp pad kuti apange nsalu yoluka yoluka.
Kuluka kwamakono kunachokera ku kuluka pamanja.Nsalu zolukidwa ndi manja zakale kwambiri zomwe zapezeka mpaka pano zitha kuyambika zaka 2,200 zapitazo.Ndi nsalu ya jacquard yamitundu iwiri yopangidwa kuchokera ku Tomb of Warling States Period ku Mashan, Jiangling, China mu 1982. Zovala zoyambirira zomwe zimapezeka kunja ndi masokosi a ana a ubweya ndi magulovu a thonje ochokera kumanda a Aigupto, omwe amakhulupirira kuti kuyambira m'zaka za zana lachisanu.Mu 1589, Mngelezi wina dzina lake William Lee, anapanga makina oluka ndi manja oyamba, omwe anayambitsa nthawi yoluka makina.China kuluka makampani anayamba mochedwa, 1896 ku Shanghai anaonekera woyamba kuluka fakitale, m'zaka zaposachedwapa, China kuluka makampani yatukuka ndi malire, kukhala nyenyezi likutuluka mu makampani nsalu, pambuyo 2006, China kuluka zovala linanena bungwe laposa zovala nsalu. .Kuluka kukonza kuli ndi ubwino wa ndondomeko yaifupi, kupanga kwakukulu, phokoso laling'ono la makina ndi malo ogwira ntchito, kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu zochepa, kusinthasintha kwamphamvu kwa zipangizo, kusintha kwachangu, ndi zina zotero. mu makina oluka oluka m'zaka zaposachedwa, nsalu ya tulle ndi mesh yakhala ikuwonekera, ikuwonjezera mitundu yambiri ya zovala, makamaka mu zovala za amayi ndi ana.Njira yopangira fakitale yoluka imasiyanasiyana malinga ndi zinthu zosiyanasiyana zomwe zimasiyidwa ndi fakitale.Ambiri mwa fakitale yoluka ndi kupanga zovala za zovala, ndipo ndondomeko yake ndi iyi: Ulusi waiwisi mufakitale - warping / mwachindunji pamakina oluka - kuluka - utoto ndi kumaliza - zovala.
Mafakitale ena amangopanga nsalu zopanda kanthu, zosadaya ndi zomaliza, kapena zopangira zovala.Ndipo ena mwa opanga mafakitale opanga nsalu ndi nsalu palibe njira yogwirira ntchito, mphero yoluka mphero, ulusi wopota nthawi zambiri umadutsa njira yokhotakhota., koma ulusi wambiri wamafuta ukhoza kukonzedwa mwachindunji ndi makina. ulusi wambiri nthawi zambiri umadutsa munjira yokhotakhota musanawombe makina.Kuluka processing sangakhoze kokha kupanga akusowekapo nsalu, ndiyeno kudula ndi kusoka mu kuluka mankhwala, komanso akhoza kupanga theka-anapangidwa ndi mokwanira zopangidwa mankhwala, monga masokosi.Magolovesi, malaya a ubweya, etc.Zopangira zoluka sizimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zovala zokha, komanso zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pazokongoletsa.Ngati warp kuluka sing'anga tulle nsalu, ukonde mauna nsalu, ntchito pa kudzikongoletsa kwa mitundu yonse ya maphwando, ntchito zidole, tablecloth, brooch ndi zina zotero.
Nthawi yotumiza: Jul-04-2022